Bath, Aylesbury, Hull and Belgium

Beginning of July, 2009

STARTING OUT: The Minnesota sky is blue as far as the eye can see. The horizon beyond the taxiing planes is a dustier blue, like the edges of carpet where it meets the woodwork.

I am a happier person because I travel. Knowing that I am missed by many, certain that my home and garden safely await my return, makes the venturing out that much sweeter. Each trip begins with a sense of starting a treasure hunt. At the very beginning, I already have one reward…freedom from domestic responsibility. Already, before even boarding the plane, I can sit and write. I can read. I can walk. I can stare into space. It’s not that I can’t do any of these things at home but that I don’t have to cook, clean, answer the phone, think about other people’s needs… everyday tension has dropped from my shoulders a mere hour after arriving at the airport. The treasure hunt is mellow and, if your attitude is good, you’ll find many. In this journal those treasures will be my theme. I’m certain to have a hundred by the end of the hunt!

#1- Young woman in front of me at check in…She will be staying with a friend in London and visiting Dublin. I recommended the haunted Dublin tour. I took it with Jasmine and Emily about a decade ago!

#2- Clerk checking me in at the airport… sweet, enthusiastic attitude that puts travelers at ease and makes them love your company!

#3- Three seats to myself on the Sun Country flight!

#4- A lovely mother and daughter traveling together to Germany to see a school that the girl might attend. It is the mom‘s first trip to Europe.

#5- The cutest Gandermen greeted us at the Gander airport. They told me about this having once been the largest airport in the world! They, also, had the first escalator in Canada! It was put in for a visit from Queen Elizabeth  in 1958. I bought a little book there about how air traffic was diverted to Gander after the 911 attacks. These planes and people swelled the population from 12,000 to 20,000! And Gander’s citizens took care of everyone!

# 6- The landscape as we approach England looks like a less organized version of the Midwest…with soapsuds clouds floating on it.

SEVERAL DAYS IN BATH, ENGLAND: Okay…I envisioned Bath smaller with narrow roads and less traffic. Somehow, I saw myself wandering around the picturesque city but I forgot about the 8000 other people envisioning exactly that! Anyway, the sky is blue and I’ll probably be happier after a good night’s sleep!

#7- Wonderful young man at a convenience store in Bath

#8- Cobbled streets

#9- View from my room on the top floor of Edgartown house

#10- Seeing the light at the church on the hillside while falling asleep

#11- Avon and Kent canal path 

#12- Tiny bridges along the canal…the boaters have to move some of them to get their boats through! 

#13- Longboats of absolutely every description

#14- Gardens on top of the longboats

#15- Watching Inspector Poirot in my bright room while I write this

#16- Happy conversation with Elaine and George who I met walking the tow path

#17- A hiking couple that answered my questions about right-of-way when walking in England

#18- Views of Bath from the hike up to the American Museum

#19- Being an American on Fourth of July and sitting in the replica of the Mount Vernon gardens at the American Museum in Bath

#20- English ladies and their dog at the museum

#21- English couple that helped me in the food line at the little cafeteria

#22- Cute old man who told me the history of the museum

#23- Divorcee from Melbourne, Australia, enjoying her new life

#24- Young employee, student at Bath University… his opinion is that the Jane Austen teas are better than the Sally Lund’s Buns teas

#25- Geometric patterns all over this city

#26- Ornate metal fences made more beautiful by the flowers against them

#27- Tim, at the park, sharing travel stories and life philosophy

#28- Jane Austen’s story

#29- This tidbit from a retired teacher; “the only thing worse than a desperately unhappy marriage might be to be a teacher”

#30- Sun shining off of the stone of the buildings which march up the hill outside my window

#31- Hedgemeade Park was a quiet retreat but scenery was ruined a little by some blatant displays of public affection!

#32- A smiling young man from Malaysia introduced himself to me at a restaurant in Bath, then, wanted to have his picture taken with me… I have to smile at the idea of him showing my picture to his relatives when he got home.

#33- Beautiful day after beautiful day

#34- Striped chairs in the lovely, pay-to-use garden 

#35- Children chasing pigeons 

#36- Bright annuals all over the Riverside Park 

#37- Cheerful tour bus driver

#38- Thatched roof houses 

#39- Tiny lanes

#40- The cathedral view around many corners

#41- Grapes taste as good as they look

#42- No large crowd at Stonehenge

#43- Stonehenge is interesting, but much smaller than I had imagined. Constructed five thousand years ago. Unimaginable!

#44- Laura from Argentina..we pretended she was my niece to get a lower price for our tour

#45 - Laura sharing songs with me to use in my classes

#46- Laura asking me to explain “all sexed up”

#47- Rachel, on the bath to London train, and her story about having a 20-year-old, a 22-year-old, and a two year old. She laughed when I said, “Congratulations and I’m so sorry.”

#48- It is my birthday and I am traveling…

THE STORY OF MY BIRTHDAY: My train was scheduled to leave at 8:43 that morning. Having no alarm, I slept fitfully and kept checking with my pedometer’s clock to see the time. Of course, I had to add six hours to the time since I had never changed it to match England. So at 11:45 Minnesota time I jumped up. I had added 6 to 11, came up with 17 and decided it was just before 8 o’clock. I flew from my bed. I didn’t shower, I tossed everything together and hurried down the 90 stairs to reception. I left my key jammed in the door where they had to notice it. I hurried toward the train station, noticing the quiet streets. As I saw the station its huge black clock told me that it was 6:30! My friend, Caroline, couldn’t meet me until afternoon in any case so I sat back with Jane Austin and ate grapes and cookies for breakfast.

At Paddington Station, I tried to pay £.30 to use the toilet. My five pence coins were rejected so I had to pay £.40. Well worth the relief for under a dollar! I figured out that I had to get to Euston station and, with the help of one Brit and one American I jumped into the train. We went one stop and then an evil voice announced, “This train terminates here. All passengers must leave the train.”  

When I, finally, reunited with Caroline I was tired…didn’t really care much for how this birthday was turning out…

But what a wonderful birthday it turned out to be! I viewed some of Eleanor‘s art and heard William on his electric guitar. I walked the village with Grandma Pat who introduced me to all we encountered. The Kirkups, Caroline’s family, took me to a picturesque pub along a canal, We had homemade cake. I got cards and presents and a good night’s sleep.

#49- Seeing Caroline at the train station at Leighton Buzzard

#50- The name “Leighton Buzzard”

#51- Winding lanes

#52- The birthday cake

#53- The cute way Eleanor twists her mouth

#54- William’s Spirit

#55- Don’s hug number

#56- Pat’s class and generosity

#57- The artful arrangement of English villages

#58- School children in uniforms

#59- The soft melody of the English accents

#60- The greens of the grass contrasted with the darker greens of the bushes and trees

#61- The young woman at the pub exclaiming that she would not go to a place like Minnesota, after I had talked about the weather, mosquitos and bears

#62- Meeting Chris in Hull

#63- Hull’s Old City Center

#64- The friendliness of the people

#65- Server in pub telling me I didn’t NEED to drink Diet Coke

#66- People in the mall office who babysat my suitcase today while I spent time with my friend, Chris

#67-Refreshing trip on the ferry en route to Brugges

NETHERLANDS: So, I am in the Netherlands for a very short time. Out the window of the train are narrow fields, streams, ponds and ditches full of water. It’s not beautiful. Behind the fields and water are train tracks, industrial facilities and wind turbines. There are lots of deciduous trees, houses and the occasional farm. Quaint houses,  alone or in clumps or entire villages are mixed with unattractive warehouses.

The journey to Amsterdam was, of course, filled with entertaining challenges. I could not reach Doug by phone. I had to crawl through a metal fence to get to a walkway in order to go under a busy intersection. I had to take a tram ride to Blankeberge so that I could get the right train to Amsterdam. The Brussels train did not arrive at the North station. Bought a five Euro hotel card to call the hotel where I was meeting the guys but it was busy every time I tried. Finally, had to pay 12 Euros to take a cab to the hotel…fingers crossed hoping I would find them.

#68- Greg was outside of the hotel so I knew immediately that I was at the right place

#69- It is a wonderful group of men! I call it “The Tour de Gramps” because of Doug, Greg and Dave but the other four really aren’t in the gramps category. 

#70- Out my window is a farmhouse and a long communal garden

#71- I have been listening to children playing, cows mooing and glasses clinking for three hours

#72- It is good to be with Doug again!

THE FLORENVILLE DAY: After a night filled with the sounds of cows, dogs, birds and the sweet sound of my husband snoring, we were ready for our first day of the Tour de Gramps. Between BBC news and the chiming count of seven from bells in the village we knew the approximate time. We had fresh bread, delicious hot chocolate and good food in a beautiful dining room. I said goodbye to the seven riders: Dan, Rob, Sean, Kevin, Doug, Dave and Greg. Then I continued my treasure hunt.

#73- Florenville was an enchanting village perched on a beautiful river

#74- The truly stunning view from the top of the church tower

#75- Young women at tourist office still thankful for American assistance in WW2

#76- I immediately spotted Doug and friends at a cafe along the river in Bouillon.

#77- A beautiful drive through the river valley and a cooling rain after arriving at our lodging

THE VRESSE-SUR-SEMOIS TO CHIMAY DAY: I started my day with a walk along the lovely river near our hotel. I had high hopes of getting some exercise before driving but there were so many biting flies I had to give up. The drive for me was longer than need be because of some GPS confusion. So I found myself in a beautiful French town…luckily not far off of the route I should have taken. Stopping in Fumay, I followed signs to Place de Baty. My biker radar was working perfectly and I found three bikers immediately. Four others walked around the corner moments later.

Doug and Greg decided on the beer over bike option so I drove up to the FAGNES brewery. We listened to a variety of music including loud bagpipes, played by some fairly robust men.  Another band played La Bamba, sort of oompah style.

After a call from Rob, I left Doug and Greg to the fiesta and went to rescue Rob in a town called Olloy. I went through many tiny villages with terrifying roads before I found him. The Sag Wagon Woman is, truly, a beautiful sight according to those being rescued!

I left Rob in custody of Greg, at the  brewery. Doug and I took off with Rob‘s bike in the car and their bikes chained to a fence in search of Dave. Dave seemed to have been lost by Rob or vice versa.

We discovered Dave two miles from Chimay riding down the side of the road. We loaded him into the car and drove to this hotel, a heavenly place for €90 a night! I’m heading for the biggest bathtub in the world…as soon as I collect the last bikes and bikers from Fagnes.

#78- The freedom of driving alone in an unknown place

#79- The clean, perfect vibe of many French villages

#80- Buying beautiful blue shoes in a small town

#81- Bakeries and candy stores

#82- Rows of attached stone houses perched on the very edge of the road, separated only by a very slim sidewalk

THE CHIMAY TO MONS DAY: It was Monday. Very often Monday is the day to close some restaurants and most museums in Europe. We started out with the men having dumb ideas. Greg wanted to eat in town, Dave wanted to ride to the guys in town, Rob was still sleeping and I had to go knock on his door, two trips are planned to get the guys to Chimay to start biking.

As I took Greg and Dave to town, we spied a gigantic storm front. As it was pouring down rain, Dave declined riding and Greg seconded that decision. Back at Franc Bois, the men had to disassemble bikes to get us all into the vehicle.

We arrived in Mons…quite a pretty, sizable city. There is, of course, the main square in the center of the city. Having been a Roman camp in the third century there are remains of the Roman Road grid, narrow cobbled streets and of course beautiful old buildings.

The guys went off for friends and beer and I went off to search for treasures.

#83- The ugly freeways and railroad tracks make everything else look so pretty

#84- Met a U.S. Army guy getting into his car as I searched for a nearby lake

#85- Met his wife who invited me in for lots of conversation…so happy to have someone to talk to!

#86- She joined me, with her son, and we walked to the lake together

#87- It was fun to have a new friend and an ex-friend all in the course of hours

#88- Got caught in a downpour without my umbrella…quite refreshing!

THE MONS TO TOURNAI DAY:

#89- Perfect weather

#90- Beautiful Loueil Castle

#91- The Roman Bridge in Tournai

#92- The Grand Place in Tournai

#93- The cathedral in Tournai

#94- The ice cream in Tournai

#95- The nap at Hotel D’Alcantara  

#96- Doug broke his arm looking at chickens after sampling beer at a brewery (sort of a warped treasure…)

#97- Received news that Angie and Torben are getting a baby!

#98- Sitting in the courtyard amongst the greenery with a view of the church that is tolling its bell

THE TOURNAI TO KORTJRIK DAY:

As Doug has an injured arm and Sean is ill they both rode with me today. It was a pleasant enough meander until they got to their first beer stop. It is much more than I can bear to listen to seven men talk about beer for hours so I decided to walk the 8 miles to Kortjrik. Not wanting to keep Doug from joining the others I took off quickly. I neglected to grab water and of course I left my umbrella. I had money and a useless phone and good walking shoes. It was a very nice paved path along an old canal. I got off at a hopeful-looking canal-side path. In a suburban-feeling neighborhood I asked a young girl if there was a store I could buy water at nearby. She pointed me in the right direction but her mom’s car, with her and her brother in the back seat, soon pulled over next to me and they offered me a ride  to the store. Little did I know the generous offer would leave me three miles from my canal path!

I found a small store, bought water and explained my dilemma to a young woman there. She walked me across the parking lot and explained in very clear English where to catch a bus. At the bus stop, another young woman, Jane became my friend. She sat with me on the bus and we exchanged life stories.

Just as I got off the bus it started to rain. I ran to the first store as I needed to find a phonebook. I had forgotten the name of our hotel! After the friendly man at the counter helped me with the information, I turned to walk out the door. A massive display of products told me that I was in a pornography shop.

I walked to the old town, found the old market square and our hotel. Evening was spent with my three men. It was perfect weather. We savored good ice cream and, later, live American classics were being played outside the hotel window. It was a long, loud lullaby!

THE KORTJRIK TO BRUGES DAY: It was a fairly uneventful day. It started with Greg, Doug and Dave all having different ideas of where we would go and when we would go there.

We decided to meet in Roeselare. I arrived there and did not find them. I investigated the Gross Basin where the canal ends. The church bells were playing a long, happy tune as I awaited another compelling round of decision-making.

The final decision of the day was to drive to a town, Walou, near the French border. It was a frightening one-lane-through-beautiful-fields driving experience ending in a town with a little square and not much else. While the men drank beer and feasted on mussels, I ate cheese, drank Coke, walked to France and read. I was always welcome to join them but I was much happier outside! It was getting late and they hadn’t called so I interrupted their fun…for the drive back to Brugges. It was stressful and I ended up angry for the first time that trip.

THE DOVER DAY: The next morning, the unhappiness of the night forgotten, Doug and Greg drove me to Calais. I was taking the ferry back to England from there because I had the romantic notion of seeing the white cliffs of Dover from the sea.It was a relaxing and refreshing journey across to England.

#99- The white cliffs of Dover

#100- Another wonderful treasure hunt concluded

THE END: I found a place called Saint Mark’s Guest House on the main road in Dover. I was given a room with two double beds and bunkbeds for about $40. I did not hear another soul in the place and imagined that I was going to be the victim in an Alfred Hitchcock movie that night.

I strolled down the road to a small restaurant and ordered some supper. I read hysterical British newspapers while I waited.

The night in the creepy townhouse was just fine and I had a very peaceful sleep. The next morning when I went to the breakfast room I was the only person there, with the same man who had checked me in making my breakfast and bringing it to me. In the light of day, with no drama, the nightmare was simply a slow week at Saint Marks for the poor man!